I’m not sure how this trip has affected me, but it certainly left its mark. The “Wallflowers” may have said it best: “I’m not changed, but I know I’m not the same.” I definitely learned a few things along the way and now have probably more questions than when I started this journey! It was an incredible experience, expecially having met so many interesting and fascinating people from all around the world and having literally flown around the globe. I have added more pictures to the people, the places and the cultures pages under the tabs above. I’ve taken over 1500 pictures, 12 hours of video, trekked over 120 miles and took a total of 14 flights. I’ll never forget this trip, yet I am so glad I am back home in the US with my wife!

So here are a few random items I’ve picked up along my journey – I’m sure I’m missing a few!

1. Always get a trekking pole or two before trekking.
2. Have goals but lose your expectations and you won’t be disappointed.
3. Pepto Bismol is a dear friend – it saved me several times on this trip!
4. Never take kindness for granted.
5. Bring a headlamp when trekking.
6. Smile – it’ll make you and everyone around you feel better.
7. Bring reserve batteries and film when trekking. Charging your gear is tricky in the mountains.
8. Leave something positive behind before you leave.
9. Go trekking if you want to lose weight; I lost 15 pounds in three weeks!
10. Laugh at yourself more often – it’s liberating – I’ve done plenty of that here!

Maybe the Sadhus I met along the way have it all figured out. Some used to be doctors and lawyers in their professions before turning their spirituality into a serious lifestyle! I’m not sure it’s for me – then again, maybe on a new journey (next time definitely with my wife!) we can make sense of it all.

With Sadhus at Pashputinath Temple in Kathmandu. (Click to enlarge)

 

Last but not least, I want to thank Daniel Lombardi for helping me out. He’s a master graphic art designer/photographer and has awards to back it up! Daniel made the pictures I took look good and I can’t thank him enough! Please see his blog as he shares some of his work and experience @ http://danieldzn.wordpress.com

 

With that I bid you farewell and save travels!

Yours truly,
-Torsten

PS: I am working on a short video which summarizes some of the trip’s highlights. I will post it here in February. Until then, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

 

 

It’s always that last day that makes you feel like part of you is already sitting in the plane although you are still at the resort – or maybe that’s just me. It’s a weird out-of-body type experience which I usually tend to combat with any physical activity to trick my mind into believing I’m not leaving yet, although I could not wait to get back home to my wife!

I only had one small suitcase with me, since I left the big one in Bangkok, so packing was a cinch. I rushed down to the breakfast area to make it a quick meal so I can spend more time on the beach. I grabbed my backpack and headed out. Two hours left, I tried to make the most of it and started walking south. I took a few lasting snapshots and video and pretty soon it was time to go back to the hotel.

(Click to enlarge)

I checked out at noon and the cab picked me up promptly. This would be a long journey back to the US. After landing in Bangkok, I plan to have dinner in the city – my last real excursion! Then it’s off to Seoul, Korea and finally a 13 hour flight back to Washington, DC. Before I checked out I had a sandwich and a couple of ‘Americanos’ on the Veranda. Need fuel and caffeine to kick off this day and plane trip back.

On the flight to Bangkok I saw what is locally known as “James Bond” island below, prominently seen in the movie “The Man with the golden Gun”. If you are a 007 fan, you probably know which one I’m talking about. During the climax of the film, Roger Moore faces off with… better yet, here’s a link with much more info regarding James Bond Island.

I landed in Bangkok and knew my way around since I had been here a few days earlier. I planned on taking a cab into the city and decided to store my small suitcase along with my big one at the luggage storage facility. Then I headed to the taxi stand and off we went. I wasn’t quite sure where to go, so I finally settled on the Mandarin Oriental hotel which supposedly has a great view and food to match it. So we entered the Bangkok Express way and noticed my cabbie was quite a bit in a hurry as he sped up to 100 mph, weaving through the evening traffic. I scrambled to buckle up but there are no seatbelts in the back of this taxi. When we got to the hotel, I stepped out in my shorts and backpack and was greeted by the doorman with “Checking in?” As soon as I replied with “No, I’m having dinner here”, the warm smile disappeared and I was ignored from that point on. I needed to look a bit less “transient” and the backpack and shorts didn’t help matters. So I changed into a pair of jeans in the bathroom and left my bag with Concierge and instantly looked like a guest of the hotel. Next I needed a recommendation on where to dine. So I asked one of the clerks to recommend one of the many restaurants in the hotel. The choice for this evening’s dinning extravaganza was the outside patio by the river. Cool! I was greeted by the host “What’s your room number, sir?” – “Oh, I’m having dinner with one of your guests.” I replied. She grabbed a couple of menus and led me to a table close to the water with a great view. You must be quick to learn these techniques so as not to get snooty stares, a table in the back or bad service! The buffet had everything you could have asked for. All food stations were flanked by custom made ice sculptures – they spared no expense. I had a phenomenal dinner!

Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok - on the patio by the River.

I took a cab back to the airport and I was actually really looking forward to my last two flights back home since both were in First Class. I was able to book my flight with Delta SkyMiles and got a deal! A check-in with no luggage issues (even my heavy bags cleared the weight allowance with no problems) and one health check later, I found myself in the international departure area of the airport and there must have been dozens of high-end stores that lead up to the gates. Once I boarded my Korean Air flight to Seoul, I got the royal treatment. An American businessman sitting next to me told me a little bit about his experience of living in Korea. He came to Bangkok for business and probably has been flying this route to Seoul a dozen times. I tried to make relevant conversation: “I really like Korean Food,” to which he replied “I really like Korean Women.” The four hour flight took no time. I guess time flies when you are sitting in First Class!

I had almost three hours until my very last and definitely longest flight of my trip so I just ended up exploring Incheon International Airport in Seoul. Lots of shops and quite representative of South Koreas advance in consumer technology. Koreans seem to be doing well, at least the people I saw. Designer clothing worn by many and available throughout the airport. I didn’t make any purchases here – couldn’t find a cool Korean t-shirt, only designer clothes which I can get in the States.

On the plane I got a window seat next to a Korean gentleman who must have been of some importance. He was very polite but didn’t speak English. Throughout the flight the attendants bowed to him more times than to any of the other guests and even the captain came out to greet him and they chatted for a while. Interestingly his lunch and dinner choices – we got menus for both meals – were quite different than mine. I tried to soak up any cultural opportunities left on my trip and ordered the most foreign sounding item I could find and settled on BimBimBap, a Korean dish with rice and vegetables. Being Korean, he countered with the all-American  fried chicken with mashed potatoes! As I struggled to eat liquid rice-soup with my metal chop sticks, he easily tore through his lunch in record time with a fork. It was a really good meal but by the time I was done, he had already finished watching an episode of “Seinfeld” with Korean subtitles. I felt the pressure to perform faster at our next showdown – dinner! I rested up for a few hours and was ready for the challenge. The attendant handed out the menus and I confidently picked Korean Bone soup - I can spoon my way through a bowl in no time, having had plenty of practice with Vietnamese Pho, which I am most likely addicted to at this point, but that’s another story! His choice was clear – Pork chops! This time I needed an edge as not to fall behind so blatantly, so I asked the attendant for an extra large soup spoon along with chop sticks. A couple of times he glanced over at my plate for a second or two to see how I was holding up – I think I made him nervous! Unlike his meal, mine needed to be somewhat “assembled” like many asian soup dishes, which gave him an unfair head start; not to mention his tools of choice - knife and fork - seemed an obvious advantage.  I gave it my best shot and both of us felt really good about our dinner choices; although in the end he beat me again and stuffed as we were, we settled in to see a movie on our oversized entertainment screens. It was a good flight!

The First Class Seat (click on link for details) on this ‘Korean Air’ plane  actually flattens out completely, so you can really take a nap. So after the movie I got a few hours of sleep and felt quite rested when you made our descent to Dulles International airport. It felt good being back home!

Same routine as last time, I took the shuttle to the boat dock and got on board of a large catamaran called “The Stingray” operated by “Sea Bee divers”. This is a big boat and there must be around 30-40 of us onboard. My mind started swimming (no pun intended) on whether the dive operators could properly count the number of people who come back up to the boat from their dives so as to not leave any divers in the water, completely stranded and alone with the marine life! Thailand has an above average reputation of leaving divers in the water. But this outfit is one of the most professional companies I ever had the pleasure to dive with! I would highly recommend them!

Feeding bread from the boat attracts a few fish.

Similan Islands are about 30 miles west of us and it takes almost two hours to get there with this catamaran. We dropped anchor on island #7. As on my last dive two days ago, there are four divers in each group. As soon as I broke the surface I realized I was in for a treat. The water was crystal clear with visibility of at least 60 feet! Tons of fish and the most beautiful coral formations including fan corals, which I had not seen this big before. Since I don’t have a good housing for my camera, I could only take a few snapshots from the surface with my lightly waterproof Olympus. Outside of a couple of Titan triggerfish and a few moray eels, we didn’t see any whale sharks which are sometimes seen in the area. I am dying to see a whale shark in open water! I love sea life and am an active member of Oceana, an organization trying to protect our oceans; unfortunately it is a rare event to spot them. One boat crew member by chance caught the glimpse of one on his first dive here.

I get goofy sometimes right before jumping in the water.

The second dive also was incredible. There is a lot of sea life around these islands and I am glad I came here. By the time I got back to the hotel, I was beat! Diving burns a lot of calories and there is usually not a whole lot you want to do physically afterwards. I definitely needed to get back to Khao Lak and get some souvenirs though. There are always trinkets to get! So around 6:30 I took the shuttle to the main street in Khao Lak. There I wanted to check out a few of the vendors I had seen the other day but there was little time left since I wanted also to head back to the hotel with the 8:30 shuttle. So instead of heaving a lavish dinner at a local restaurant I chose street food. I usually steer clear of those because of the inherent health risks associated and I have been warned by friends who have travelled abroad. But there was a line of people, including locals, which said something about the quality of food they served. So I ordered Pad Thai with Chicken and noticed my mouth getting watery as I watched the woman behind the stand prepare it in a wok. Only $2.50 for a big plate full. Right behind her I stepped into a 7/11 type store to grab a coke. As I juggled both food and drink and approached the counter, I got a few giggles from the check out girls who had a good time watching me struggle as I was trying to collect my dinner and pay for the drink. I laughed right along with them and walked outside. I sat down on a bench with a bunch of German tourists and we all raved about the food which rocked, especially for the price!

I hit a few stores afterwards and finally found what I was looking for. Funny thing happened on the way back as I passed a vendor. He motioned for me to see his store and said the exact same phrase I heard in Kathmandu. “First customer tonight is good fortune for me. Please see my store.”  I needed to get back to catch the shuttle; otherwise I might have checked it out. As I waited for the shuttle to arrive, I noticed a group of lady-boys advertising for a local show in town. These transvestites are colorful entertainers and struggle to fill the seats of their local nightclub. They pass out flyers for the nightly show to passers-by, mainly tourists. I got one of those and seriously wanted to do something different after my strict relaxation regiment. I’d be OK going by myself, but a group of people would be a blast! Five couples of varying age groups, almost all Europeans got comfortable in the shuttle bus for the short ride back to the hotel but before the driver closed the doors I asked the group if anyone would be interested in seeing the Lady-boys show. Immediately, I got a bus full of laughs. No language translation needed for that answer! I guess they thought I was cracking a joke. So I repeated myself, “No seriously – anybody want to do something different tonight and join me for some live cabaret entertainment?” Then, the laughter turned into complete silence. I was sitting in the passenger’s seat, so I turned to the bus driver, who I had been talking to a few times and asked him the same question. He’s a local, I’m sure he has more of an open mind and might be interested in supporting the community, right? He answered with a very affirmative ‘No’ and cracked up! Immediately everyone else in the bus started laughing again as well! Ladybusy are actually respected entertainers in Thailand, but may seem a bit obscure to foreigners. I guess I need to find company somewhere else or I just have to go by myself.

Ladyboys of Khao Lak - yes, these are all "boys". (Click to enlarge)

Back at the hotel I sat down with Tanja and Roman on the Veranda for a few drinks, as all of us were enjoying our last evening in Thailand. Then a thought hit me, ‘Hey, maybe they are interested in seeing the show!’ It was 9pm now and it didn’t start for another hour so there is plenty of time. I think they might have been more adventurous than the other tourists I shared the bus with, but they were also heading out to the airport tomorrow at 4am! I had until noon tomorrow to get ready. Not a problem – maybe after couple of beers, I’ll just see the show by myself if they need to start packing.

Last evening in Khao Lak with Tanja and Roman on the Veranda.

It was a gorgeous evening and we all wished for another few days here at Le Meridien. Roman shared an interesting diving experience he had on his last dive yesterday. A remora, known also as a sucker fish which usually attaches itself to the body of a shark to hitch a ride and snack on the leftovers the host shark leaves behind. Well apparently one remora mistook Roman’s oxygen tank for a shark! You can see the result below.

Remora (sucker fish) hitching a ride

The beers kept coming as we all discussed everything from diving to politics to buying land in Thailand and living here. By the time we headed back to our rooms, it was around midnight and I had missed the show! Nevertheless, I think it was time well spent in the company of new friends!

Today’s order of business was simple and to the point. Do as little as possible and do it with lots of beaming sun rays and time in the water! This also included getting up whenever I felt like it. The weather was perfect – sunshine and not a cloud in the sky. Camera gear in tow, I made my way down to the breakfast area. At 10am I thought I’d be one of the last guests but to my surprise the restaurant was packed. The buffet offered everything you could have wanted! Seriously, eggs, meats, cereals, croissants of any flavor, smoked fish, fresh squeezed juices, Japanese breakfast, you name it – they got it. I grabbed my backpack and headed to the beach and just started walking. One of the sites along the way was an abandoned hotel which had been left untouched since the Tsunami. It was completely obliterated. A set of steps led up to it was the only section left intact. Vegetation has overtaken the grounds in the last few years.

Warning! Geek on the (beautiful) beach.

Every now and then you come across a local vendor on the side offering local fare, cooked in a makeshift kitchen. A couple of plastic chairs and tables and probably the best Thai food you can find anywhere! I stopped by one of them and had an outstanding lunch – super spicy shrimp in chili with rice – loved it! Did I mention it was really inexpensive? For around the price of a McDonald’s “Happy Meal” in the States, I got the works and a coke.

Having lunch in a large beach hut.

After a day exploring the beaches, I finally headed back to the hotel. There I needed a caffeine boost after a day in the sun, so I ordered one of my afternoon favorites to perk me up – an “Americano” – at the Veranda café. I immediately got some odd looks. The girls working the Espresso machine had never heard of my request. So I explained how it’s made – one shot of espresso in a cup and fill it up with hot water. It came out great! I was told that the “Americano” will be available here at the hotel from now on. Cool! Now if they could just change the name to yours truly then I would be even more impressed!

For dinner I decided to give Thai food a break and check out one of Le Meridien’s other restaurants.  I had reservations at the “Bangsak Grill”, which serves Mediterranean cuisine and I think I could have just shown up since there were plenty of tables available. This was not a good sign but the scenery was breathtaking and I got a table with a view towards the ocean. Having dinner at an upscale beach resort restaurant when you are by yourself feels a bit awkward since you are usually surrounded by honeymooners or couples. No one ever sits alone unless that person has an argument with their significant other and they decide to eat separately. So during this trip I always got a few of stares and looks – “Why is he having dinner by himself?!” That’s the downside of traveling alone. I got used to that so it didn’t bother me after a while. Tonight I didn’t notice anyone around me although the outside deck was filling up. To top it off, I must have had the best Italian food for as long as I can remember and yet, I am in Thailand! I can only recommend this place – you won’t be disappointed if you come here!

After dinner, I strolled back to the veranda, my favorite hangout place – close to the espresso maker and bar! There, I ran into Roman and we kicked back with a couple of beers, while Tanja was enjoying a session at the Spa. Both of them had gone diving today and I got to hear about their experiences. I cannot wait for my excursion tomorrow to Similan Islands – one of the most renowned dive locations in the world. This dive site was one of the main reasons I chose Khao Lak.

I love diving. You always get to meet new people on the boat, explore new dive sites, encounter marine life you may not have seen before. But for me the price is steep – getting up in the wee hours. You would think after three weeks in Nepal with Eaklal banging on my door at 6am, sometimes even earlier, I’d be used to it. I guess I’ll never be a cheerful early riser. I grabbed my backpack with some essentials: towel, suntan lotion, shades, and my dive mask, which was the only dive gear I had brought along on this trip. I stumbled out of room 226 and headed to the dinning room. It was a little after 7am. Most four and five star hotels offer an incredible array of breakfast foods – Le Meridien Hotel also didn’t disappoint! Outside of another couple sitting across the dinning room I was the only other guest this early in the morning. Must be nice to sleep in, but at this point I was pumped to get out and dive in the famous coastal waters of Thailand! After a hearty eggs, bacon and biscuits breakfast, I headed upstairs to await the ride to the marina.

The van showed up at 8am and we got to the boat dock 30 minutes later. On the way, I started talking to Roman, another guest at also staying at my hotel. We’d end up spending some time together for the remainder of my stay here in Khao Lak. Our boat was medium sized and there were about 12-14 guests – mostly Europeans. Today’s trip would take us to a wreck site. The sun started popping out which is always a relief when you are diving because it makes for a much better underwater experience. We split up into three groups, four people in each with a guide. I was grouped with a German couple and Roman. Water clarity was superb, visibility at least 50 to 60+ feet, which is superb. The wreck was scattered mainly as a result of the 2004 Tsunami which had left its mark in the area. The coral life was rich and colorful with plenty of sea life all around. After 50 minutes of underwater bliss, everyone got a break with some food and drinks for lunch. Then off to our second dive which was even better. We explored other areas of the wreck and I got a good look at some of the sunken ships interior or what was left of it. Wrecks make a perfect home for schools of smaller fish, so there were many different colorful species swimming and ducking about whenever any of us got close. The occasional moray eel reminded us not to get too close! The other species definitely deserving respect and distance were schools of lion fish – what a sight!

On dive boat off the coast of Khao Lak, Thailand. (Click to enlarge)

We made it back to the hotel around 4pm and my evening was wide open. One thing I wanted to find out though were my options on my last day here. My plane didn’t take off until 5pm and sitting around seemed a bit dull, so I decided to talk to the concierge to see what my options are regarding excursions, half-day trips and so forth. The lady I talked to was quite chipper and I explained my situation. She pulled out a map of area and suggested maybe going on a kayak trip to explore caves. That sounded awesome! Another option would be to get up really early and take a trip out to Phi Phi Island – the place known to many and seen in the movie, “The Beach”. Only problem I would face are about four to five thousand other tourists. That didn’t appeal to me at all. She also managed to ever so eloquently slip in the fact that on the way back was a place called, “Patong”, a popular beach around Phuket to see women! I think I gave her a strange look.  We started talking more about me. I was at the hotel alone and since I went diving today, I didn’t wear my wedding ring. After explaining this, she gave a smile and leveled with me and said she originally thought I was gay! What a great way to break the ice with the hotel concierge. Once I cleared up the fact that I’m married, she wondered why I am interested in seeing women then?! I guess she forgot that I merely acknowledged her pointing at the map when she mentioned “Patong”, I never actually said “Hey, where do all the women hang out?” I do need to be careful with gestures in Thailand. A mere nod seems to signal an affirmative action around here. As I blushed and tried to explain the situation, she became playful about it and I definitely had a good laugh! I ended up deciding to not rush around any remote destination on my last day with my entire luggage in tow and just soak my feet at the beach instead. After all, I had another dive day coming up and when was I actually planning on “relaxing”?

Shortly afterwards, Roman knocked on my door and suggested grabbing dinner in Khao Lak along with his wife, Tanja. What a great idea and I truly appreciated the invitation!  The shuttle picked us up and we strolled to a restaurant built mostly with bamboo. There we spent about two hours eating authentic local Thai cuisine and sharing our experiences since we got here. I miss sitting outside in shorts and flip-flops and enjoying a couple of beers! Before taking the shuttle back we checked out a few road-side stores and boutiques and I felt the same vibe I remembered from Kathmandu. I guess when you run a shop you need to promote your businesses as much as possible. Many vendors try to catch your eye and start a conversation. Whether you are in Nepal or Thailand, it usually starts with a statement like “So, where are you from?” Tanja got a Thai souvenir and soon after we all headed back to the hotel. There I grabbed my netbook and hung out on the veranda… with a few more beers.